A Refined Culinary Journey to Savor the Beauty of Japan’s Four Seasons with All Five Senses

Ningyocho in Tokyo is a historic district where kabuki, puppet theater and doll-related culture once flourished. The atmosphere of the old days and the appeal of the new still coexist here, and alongside its liveliness there is also a quiet, settled mood. From the corner where the Edo Rakugo Karakuri Yagura stands, a tower whose karakuri (mechanical puppet) show based on Edo rakugo (traditional comic storytelling) is performed at set times every day, turn into the side street and walk about two minutes, and there you will find Shiki Ryori Kitagaichi.
Using seasonal ingredients, the owner-chef puts the passing of the seasons into every single plate, from seasonal specialties to special dishes such as okuizome (a meal celebrating a baby’s first food) and oiwaizen (celebratory meal sets) that bring together auspicious ingredients.
Why not experience the beauty of Japanese culture and the spirit of omotenashi (Japanese-style hospitality) at Shiki Ryori Kitagaichi?

The greatest appeal of this restaurant lies, above all, in cooking that treasures what is in season.
Japan has long had a calendar called the nijushi sekki (twenty-four solar terms), which divides the year into 24 periods to express the passing of the seasons, and at Kitagaichi the dishes are composed with an eye not only on the broad divisions of spring, summer, autumn and winter but also on these finer seasonal changes. Because you can taste ingredients particular to each time of year, another attraction is meeting a different season every time you visit.
Sashimi, grilled dishes, deep-fried dishes, hot pots: the cooking method is varied to suit each ingredient, drawing out its natural character.

A sense of season shows in the vessels and the plating that adorn the food as well, and in every dish you can feel the aesthetic sensibility unique to Japanese cuisine. In particular, the “Kue Zukushi Course (Kiwami)” lets you enjoy rare kue (longtooth grouper), also called a “phantom luxury fish,” prepared in a variety of ways.

What you will want to enjoy along with the food is sake chosen from all over Japan, and wines selected with washoku pairings in mind. The labels change with what has been sourced, so asking the staff about the glass available that day is one of the pleasures.

The care here goes beyond the food to the vessels, the sake ware and the utensils. Enjoy the shape and texture of the vessel in your hand, and the way it is matched with the dish, and you will notice charms of Japanese cuisine that go beyond simply eating.

To finish, the “Karasumi Soba,” soba generously coated with karasumi (cured mullet roe), is also recommended. It is a dish to take your time over, savoring an umami and saltiness found only in Japan.

Shiki Ryori Kitagaichi is the place to visit to round off a stroll through Ningyocho.
Because it stands on a back street a little away from the bustle of the main area, it has the special feel of a hideaway found along the way.
Up the stairs beyond the noren (entrance curtain), the interior is calm and warm with wood. Counter seats and private rooms are available, and you can also enjoy your meal while watching the chef at work.

Nearby is Suitengu, a shrine known for safe childbirth and fertility, and Ningyocho is a town where traditional culture is still alive today. In keeping with the character of the area, special courses such as okuizome (a meal celebrating a baby’s first food) are offered here as well, and an encounter with Japanese culture that goes beyond a simple meal awaits.

Why not walk through Ningyocho, which shows a different face by day and by night, and enjoy a culinary experience together with the history of the area?